Winters Past

20th Century Fashion from Deco to Disco

August 26, 2018
by Winters Past
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Exploring Early 60s Style

I recently had a photo shoot with Micanopy portrait photographer Aimee Van Gelder. I dressed in vintage outfits from three eras including the early 1960s, while Aimee did her thing with lights, backdrops and poses.

For my early 60’s look, I chose a vintage sleeveless dress with a jewel neck. It had a full pleated skirt. My hat was a straw boater & I donned some ladylike short white gloves.

early 1960s style

Early 1960s style

In this hat I felt a little bit like Marlo Thomas in That Girl. It was a fun, easy to wear look that-sans gloves-I’d  wear right now. Of course, exploring this style made me go down the rabbit hole of fashion research

From start to finish, the 1960s was a decade of dramatic change. As with all eras, the tenor of the times is reflected in the clothes.

Social change was happening very fast in the 60’s. It was really like three mini decades compressed into a 10 year span.

So lets look at the early 60’s, which was really just a rather conservative extension of the 50’s. The styles were ladylike and proper. Mini skirts hadn’t happened yet. Ladies were still wearing hats and gloves.

early 1960s style

If June Cleaver was your role model, you were in luck

The waistline was at the waist. Dresses were either full and swingy or a slim pencil/sheath cut. Prints and colors were more muted and classic than the 1950s. The early 60s were the calm before the storm!

August 17, 2018
by Winters Past
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A Short Post About Vintage Shorts

The fashion pendulum is forever swinging. One style gets popular and you see it everywhere until a few innovative people start sporting it’s polar opposite. After a while, that once-fresh style gets too popular and the old look cycles back into favor. Statement necklaces give way to dainty necklaces. Baggy jeans give way to skinny jeans and back again.

Right now, the innovative ones have adopted a high waisted look. Right now, my customers want a waistline at or above the natural waist in jeans, shorts and pencil skirts.

Mid century vintage shorts sport a high waist so they definitely fit in with that look. With that in mind, I recently asked my Etsy model Angela La Muse to show us vintage shorts from the 40’s to the early 60’s, the heyday of great high waisted shorts. The Betty Grable bombshell look is her specialty, so she was happy to oblige.

We started with the 1940s because it is really the first decade that women wore shorts. In classic pin-up style, the silhouette is high waisted and rather short. Some have trouser detail like pleats, cuffs and pockets. They close at the side or back.

vintage 1940s shorts

Vintage 1940s shorts

In the 1950’s, leisure culture in America really took hold. Think about the suburban casual lifestyle from the decade that gave us the patio, the lanai, grilling, and pool parties. The Miami/Palm Beach aesthetic was new and fresh. Along with that came shorts of many styles.

In the 1950’s the shortest length was the short short, followed by an above the knee Bermuda, below the knee pedal pushers and the capri which is somewhere between a short and a pant. Other cropped pants or long shorts were known as pedal pushers,  clam diggers, and toreador pants.

vintage 1950s shorts

Vintage 1950s shorts

In the early 1960’s, shorts were still high waisted but came to the knee or below.

vintage 1960s shorts

Vintage 1960s shorts

By the mid to late 60’s, the style pendulum had moved to hip huggers and cut offs, and these high waisted beauties had to wait for the next style cycle to make them fashionable again.

August 10, 2018
by Winters Past
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We Will Never Be Royals (but we can wear hats like them)

Yesterday a friend told me about a lovely tradition she established for herself: she has saved a favorite clothing item from each decade of her life. Brilliant!

I can picture a few of my own stellar wardrobe items I would love to still have, especially some of my clothes from the 80’s. I was a young adult then, with a bit of discretionary income and time, so I was more indulgent with myself.

My mother’s most fashionable era was the 40’s, her own young single adulthood. I love to look at photos of her wearing trim little suits, red lipstick and a great hat, worn at an angle. Perhaps this is why I really love the 1940s tilt hats and, when I find one, I think of my mother.

The 1940’s was a great hat decade. One of the most flattering styles was the tilt hat, which has no brim or a very small one. It’s generally worn a little bit forward and to one side.

To illustrate their allure , here is the patron saint of 40’s tilt hats, Bette Davis:

Bette Davis in 1940s tilt hat

She’s got Bette Davis hats

In the modern world, the heir apparent of the sassy tilt hat is Kate Middleton. Behold her ability to look like she’s having a great time in each of these beauties. She may never be the Queen but in my book she’s the queen of modern headwear:

Kate Middelton vintage hats

Kate Middelton’s hat game is on point

New on the scene is Meghan Markle, who also knows her way around a great tilt hat:

Meghan Markle in hats

Meghan Markle in hats

The royals are wearing new hats in the style of vintage ones. My preference, of course, is for true vintage, like these:

modern women wearing vintage tilt hats

Modern women wearing vintage tilt hats

Like Bette Davis, these modern ladies know that a smaller hat worn at a tilt is a great look.

July 27, 2018
by Winters Past
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Vintage Mexican Fashion, Frida Style

Frida Kahlo. What are you picturing right now? Braided hair, flower crowns, long embroidered dresses and, of course, the unibrow.

Kahlo developed an absolutely unique, artfully created look that erased the line between her art and her personal style.

Here is a pretty cool garment I recently acquired that made me think about the artist’s “traditional” dress and how she made a statement with it.

vintage Mexican dress at Winters Past

Satin and lace dress with floral embroidery

It’s a Tehuana dress and it’s from the town of Oaxaca in southeast Mexico.

Frida Kahlo famously wore this style and painted portraits of herself wearing it.  Here is some of Frida’s wardrobe from an exhibit:

Frida vintage Mexican dress at Winters Past

And a few photos of her wearing this style:

Frida Kahlo in traditional Mexican Tehuana dress

Frida Kahlo in traditional Mexican Tehuana dress

Kahlo was very conscious of image and symbolism as well as aesthetics. She knew she commanded attention with her personal style and she used this to  express her thoughts about Mexican culture to the larger world.

On another level, it was also a feminist statement. Oaxaca has traditionally been a matriarchal society where women ran the marketplace and the economy, so she adopted their clothing style as a symbol of female power.

She also wore long skirts to disguise her physical disabilities, which she revealed in her paintings but not in her public life.

Kahlo’s clothing was a part of her art, and still commands attention 50 years after her passing.

 

July 22, 2018
by Winters Past
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The Secret Life of Clothes: Hippie Shirts

Most of the time when I buy things for the shop, even men’s things, I buy them from women. I rarely get the garments’ backstory from a man’s viewpoint. However, this week, I got a dozen pieces from a man who really wanted to tell me all about his shirts. So here we have the next installment in occasional series I call The Secret Life of Clothes, and this time its about a guy who had sentimental attachments to his old hippie shirts.

This 72 year old man saved his shirts from the 1970s in the back of his closet for 40 years because they helped him remember a specific period of his life.  In the 1970’s he had been married to the love of his life, a creative and volatile woman named Zoma. She sewed well-crafted snap front cowboy shirts and “ethnic” pullover jackets for him, then she broke his heart.

vintage 1970s mens shirts

Upper left: “I wore this one to a bar with my big white cowboy hat. A big biker dude grabbed me and took my hat. It took my wife and I both to fight him off, but we got the hat back. She was a tough one-she didn’t shy away from a fight.”

Upper right: “I got this shirt when I was in Guatemala. As soon as we got there, a civil war broke out. We had to hide in the hills for weeks”

Lower left: “We were in Mexico on the motorcycle . I got this leather vest with snakeskin trim. She got a matching halter top.”

vintage 1970s mens shirts

Upper Left: “We were going to a concert. My wife grabbed the bedspread right off the bed, made me a shirt and a skirt for herself and we matched.”

Upper right: “I called this one my special shirt. I only wore it when I was taking LSD”

Lower left: “After my wife left, I moped around the house for awhile  and then I started to go out again, I wore this shirt because the ladies seemed to like it”

Lower right: “I had this shirt made for me in Hong Kong”

Me: “What were you doing in Hong Kong?”

Him: “I have no idea”

vintage 1970s mens shirts

Upper left: “She tapered this one so it really fit me. It was my favorite shirt. It’s nice to have clothes made just for you.”

Upper right: “I called this one my ‘power shirt’. I wore it when I needed a little extra, you know, power”

Lower left: “I got this one when we backpacked across Indonesia”

Lower right: “This was the last shirt she made for me.”

July 11, 2018
by Winters Past
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Vintage Sleuth: How to Figure Out How Old It Is

Did you read Nancy Drew books when you were kid? Just like the intrepid girl detective, I enjoy a good mystery and a little sleuth work now and then.

Since I want to know the age and background of every piece in the shop, a little detective work is in order. I thought you might want to hop into my metaphorical convertible roadster and go along for the ride.

Let’s solve the mystery this dress I recently acquired. So pretty, right?

It’s a shirtwaist style lace day dress with impeccable detail.  What fancy mechanical buttons!

vintage 1930's lace dress

How old is this vintage lace dress?

Let’s look at the overall style and cut. It has a waistline at the waist, a metal side zipper, a gently flaring hem and a light shoulder pad.

These features lead me to think it’s from the late 30’s to early 40’s. Why?

Well, I know that zippers started to be used in clothing in 1935, so it was made after that. Zippers moved to the back in the late 50s and were made of nylon after 1965, placing our garment well before that.

If  it were a WW2 era dress, roughly 1942-1947,  the shoulder pads would be broader and bolder, so it’s probably not from those years.

A late 40’s or 1950’s dress would have an exaggerated fit-and-flare silhouette with a dramatically wide hem, placing it earlier than that.

Now lets search Google for a “1930’s 1940s lace day dress”.  Here are a few, all listed as being 1930s:

vintage 1930's lace dress

Pretty similar to our dress

Now let’s look up the label, which reads Frillon Lace.

Woo Hoo! Jackpot! It’s the same dress in a different colorway.

But wait! Is that an advertisement for our dress from 1938?

vintage 1930's lace dress

The photos shoe someone online posting a similar dress with an ad for it from 1938

Mystery solved, case closed. Let’s have some Tollhouse cookies straight from the oven with a glass of cold milk to celebrate.

July 4, 2018
by Winters Past
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Vintage Turquoise and Silver Jewelry

This photo of Princess Grace from the 70’s is just about perfect. The hair, the caftan, the pose, yes!

Now focus on just her squash blossom necklace. It’s bold, obviously, but she wears it so well.

vintage squash blossom

Grace Kelly mixes cultures with ease

Now feast your eyes on actress Vanessa Hudgens in a simple white outfit and a huge fabulous squash blossom. Yowza mama!

vintage squash blossom

Actress Vanessa Hudgens

Native American jewelry is gorgeous and popular but not so easy for me to find. However, I do have an occasional visitor to the shop, a Navajo man from New Mexico, who sells older pieces for his extended family. I buy from him whenever he’s in Florida.

Last week I was lucky enough to have a visit from him and was able to acquire this beauty:

wearing vintage native american jewelry

Antique Navajo squash blossom necklace                                                                                   

There is a lot to learn about this jewelry and I pick up bits and pieces from him. One interesting thing I have come to understandand is that most US turquoise mines are tapped out, so the only way to see the full range of American turquoise is in vintage jewelry.

My seller knows which mine each piece of turquoise comes from based to the color and the “matrix”,  which is the pattern caused by copper in the stones. These Navajo rings that I bought last week show some of the varieties turquoise comes in.

vintage silver rings

Antique Native American rings, including white turquoise, top left, and one with a badger claw, top right

Here’s a superb necklace now in the shop featuring turquoise from the Royston mine in Nevada. It was made by the tribe known as Santo Domingo (but who prefer to be called Kewa).

vintage turquoise

Handmade Turquoise Disc (Heishi) necklace

Now let’s look at some modern ladies wearing vintage Native American jewelry with relaxed ease. Like Princess Grace and Vanessa Hudgens, they keep the rest of the outfit simple and neutral, letting their jewelry take center stage.

wear vintage turquoise and silver

wearing vintage native american jewelry

June 21, 2018
by Winters Past
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Easy Summer Style: Tie a Vintage Silk Scarf in your Hair

Hot. Humid. Summer. Florida. Also, mosquitos.

Happy solstice, y’all!

Clearly its far too muggy for complete sentences. We wouldn’t want to overly exert ourselves right now, would we?

Here’s a very easy style idea that takes mere seconds, will elevate your look and will actually make you feel cooler. 

There are but 3 easy steps. 1.Pick up some vintage silk scarves. 2.Gather your hair into some semblance of a bun. 3.Tie the scarf around the bun. There you have it!

Ladies with cropped hair can do the scarf thing, too, minus the bun.

Now get yourself a cold beverage, one thats not too sweet. Right now I’m enjoying  Passion Fruit tea from Tazo, iced. It’s like an updated version of the classic hippie Zinger teas but less pucker inducing. A chilled La Croix is alway nice, too. I like the Pamplemouse, which is apparently French for grapefruit, and not only for the name.

Add a paper fan from the Asian market and you’re good to go.

Here’s that scarf-plus-bun combo in action:

Tie a vintage scarf in your hair

A messy bun looks fresh when wrapped in a vintage silk scarf

vintage scarf and a messy bun

Tuck the scarf ends in or let them trail.

vintage scarf and a messy bun

You can wrap the scarf around the bun or around your head to hold back the strays.

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy.

Stay vintage. Stay cool.

vintage loungewear at Winters Past in Micanopy

May 31, 2018
by Winters Past
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Vintage Hostess Wear

Recently I came across this gorgeous garment. It’s a floor length,  in a crisp taffeta fabric, with dramatic collar and cuff detail. It’s got a wonderful late 1940s feel and a bold paid print:

vintage loungewear at Winters Past in Micanopy

vintage loungewear at Winters Past in Micanopy

It’s kind of a gown, yet kind of a robe. After a deep dive into the turbulent waters of Lake Google, I solved this sartorial mystery. It’s a hostess outfit, a special category that existed from the 1920s into the 1970s. These pieces are not sleepwear or streetwear; they are lounge attire, worn by the lady of the house for entertaining. It’s a category of clothing called “at home clothes” that has since gone extinct.

In the 20’s and ’30s, “at home” clothes were very elegant. Hostess garments were either silk lounging pants, beach pajamas or fancy wraps. In the 1940s, hostesses often wore a long belted robe like my plaid one. In the 1950s,”cigarette” pants with an open skirt or overdress were considered a very chic outfit when having guests. Lucille Ball wore one of these in an I Love Lucy episode and looked very stylish.

By the mid 1960’s, the Maxi Dress era was upon us and hostesses wore lots of polyester in bright prints or black.

The 1970s were, of course, the Caftan Decade. From Marrakesh to Miami, ladies and a few brave men lounged in these exotic garments.

vintage loungewear at Winters Past in Micanopy

vintage loungewear at Winters Past in Micanopy

After the 1970’s, hostess wear disappeared and long with it, a certain elegance.

The idea of pairing comfort and a bit of elegance is an appealing one, along with a life in which we take the time to turn drinks or dinner with friends into an event.

Although I tend toward nostalgia as a default response, I do know the “athleisure” trend does not actually signal the end of civilization as we know it.

It is possible to live fully in the modern world while still holding a space in our lives for a more gracious social experience, one encapsulated by the idea of “at home” clothes. I like the idea of clothing that isn’t what we exercise or sleep in to wear when we are in our homes.

Lately, even if my evening involves the couch  and the second season of Mad Men,  I’m trying to wear something other than last year’s yoga pants. I found a great mod caftan with a seventies socialite vibe that I’m wearing as an “at home” outfit and I’m on the lookout for more.

May 24, 2018
by Winters Past
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Vintage Weekends, UK Style

As the owner of a vintage shop in a small rural Florida town, I have had a surprising number of British customers come through. There are even a few UK based vintage sellers who buy from me.

They tell me that “Vintage Weekends” are a huge big deal among a subgroup of English people, and it looks like so much fun.

Here are a few posters for British retro festivals I’ve seen on-line:

British vintage weekends

British vintage weekends

These weekend festivals have a big emphasis on retro music with roots in the US. They celebrate swing,  R & B, boogie-woogie,  rockabilly, jazz,  blues, doo-wop and bluegrass. In fact, it looks like the Brits may have a deeper appreciation for classic American music than we have.

Music is only part of the story. There is a real mid century American carnival feel to these vintage events. They’ve got hot-rod racing, roller-skating, drive-in movies, classic car shows, and retro burlesque.

For me, of course, it’s all about the vintage clothes, hair and make-up, which are stellar. I see a mix of true vintage and reproduction garments, mixed with style and flair.

UK vintage weekends

UK vintage weekends

So, why are vintage weekends such a big thing in England?

I have a few thoughts that I’d like to explore further but for now, I’m enjoying keeping tabs on these vintage extravaganzas and their marvelous melange of styles.